I’m definitely not very experienced with applying poly by hand… but I tried to work quickly, without going over the same areas more than once or twice. I used a mesh filter to try to filter out any of the grittiness from the milk paint.Īnd then I used a tile grout sponge to wipe the poly onto the milk paint. And it helps hide streaks and the fogginess that you can see especially in dark paint colors. I’ve found that tinting the water-based poly with the paint helps the poly finish look much better. (Yep, stirring is super important!)Īnd then I poured it into a separate container, and I mixed a little bit of the milk paint into it to tint it. So after everything was smooth, and the dust cleaned off, I got ready to topcoat the milk paint.įirst I stirred my favorite water-based polyurethane really good. I could have switched to a different paint if I really wanted them to not be distressed.īut I wanted this makeover to be a true Rust-oleum Milk Paint makeover.Īnd with how gritty the paint is when it dries, I wouldn’t want to not sand it smooth. The second coat of paint was still very gritty, so I had to sand it smooth again.Īt this point I gave up my hope to have these pieces not distressed. Here’s what it looked like after the second coat of paint was dry. Step 4: Paint a Second CoatĪnd I mixed the paint more just to make sure the grittiness wasn’t just a user error.Īnd then I painted a second coat all over. So, before I painted the next coat, I sanded it all smooth with fine sandpaper. I was expecting this paint to be more like general finishes milk paint than the real milk paint that comes in a powder. Actually, I think it’s even more gritty than powdered milk paint. It felt more like powdered milk paint can feel. But when I felt it… I was completely shocked. Here’s what it looked like when it was dry. Honestly, I think it might be a great paint to do a wash with. I guess I shouldn’t have been too surprised because it says on the container how you can build it up to an opaque finish. It didn’t have as good of coverage as I was expecting for black paint. I tried to paint in long brush strokes that went with the wood grain so it would minimize the brush marks left behind. The round brush is my favorite paint brush because the shape of it makes it so easy to paint flat surfaces as well as curved surfaces and all of the detail that is on furniture.Ĭheck out the best paint brush for painting furniture here. I used my Zibra round paint brush to brush the paint on everywhere, using the paint straight out of the container. Step 2: Paint with Rust-oleum Milk Paintįor these tables, I tried the Rust-oluem milk paint in the color Eclipse. Here’s what they looked like after 2 coats of clear shellac. This stuff is kind of like primer, but it’s clear, so you don’t see it under the paint.Īnd yeah, it blows my mind that this stuff makes paint stick as well as it does. I also took a couple of minutes to tape off the drawers so I wouldn’t get paint on the sides or inside of each drawer.Īnd then I sprayed them with 2 coats of shellac to help make the paint stick. Then my husband cleaned the tables with Krud Kutter to remove any grease, oils or grime that was possibly left on the surface.Īfter the hardware hole filler was dry, I sanded it down smooth and level with the wood around it. Learn why I love to use Kwikwood to fill old hardware holes here. The hardware on the drum table was nailed in as well as screwed in, so I had to pry them off.Īnd then I filled in the 3 fake drawer hardware holes with Kwikwood. Learn more about how to prepare furniture for paint here. Painting Furniture with Rust-oleum Milk Paintįirst I got the tables ready for paint… the way that I get almost every piece of furniture ready for paint. I also may earn from other qualifying purchases with other companies or get free product to review and use.
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